Tag: sewer

  • HPH179 : How to deal with sewage for a self build home – with Cath Hassell

    HPH179 : How to deal with sewage for a self build home – with Cath Hassell

    Cath Hassell from ech2o consultants explains why connecting to mains drainage is generally the best option for a new build home. She also runs through some alternatives if this is not possible.

    Interview with Cath Hassell

    Cath Hassell from ech2o consultants talks us through the options available when planning drainage for your self-build.

    Practical experience informs drainage design

    Drainage is not something usually learnt by architects during their studies. Large architect firms typically employ drainage engineers. On a job with a smaller budget, the builders deal with drainage as they have the know-how.

    There’s a choice of materials for drainage pipes

    Cath explains that taking sewage away from the house is essentially a simple process, covered by Building Regulations. Lay a pipe in a trench (at a one in 40 drop) up to your site boundary, and backfill. The local water authority will then make the final connection.

    Builders tend to prefer using uPVC for the pipe. However uPVC pipe has to be laid in gravel, displacing earth that may need to be removed from site. So Cath always specifies clay pipe, which can simply be backfilled with site earth, and has plastic connectors for ease of use.

    If you’re near to mains drainage, use it but don’t overload it

    According to Cath, the Environment Agency are now saying if you’re near to mains drainage, you have to use it for your new build. There are few areas where the sewage systems are overloaded; issues only happen during rain events.

    That said, it’s important to minimise what has to be taken away as it takes energy to pump along the sewer system and treat. The first step is to contact your local council or Building Control department to find out whether you’ve got separate sewers that take 1) foul and waste water, and 2) rain water, or combined sewers where they’re mixed together.

    If possible, you want to keep rainwater out of combined sewers. And even if you have separate sewers, Cath recommends dealing with rainwater onsite. One way is to harvest rainwater, as Cath has explained in a previous podcast. She also mentions SuDS (sustainable drainage systems) for managing surface water.

    Cesspools aren’t an environmentally friendly option

    Where mains sewers aren’t available, cesspools have been used to capture waste to be processed elsewhere. While they ensure it doesn’t go into the ground or water, Cath says that environmentally it’s a really bad idea and it’s very costly anyway, explaining, “You’ve got to pay somebody to come in, pump it out and then take it to a sewage treatment plant and pump it into the plant.” Her advice is to deal with it onsite.

    Use a low-flush, dual-flush loo

    Unless you’re on a site in a dry part of the UK and solely reliant on rainwater, Cath wouldn’t bother with composting toilets. They take up space and many are in fact dehydrating toilets that require electricity to dry out the poo. She points out that some people fixate on composting toilets but don’t even compost their vegetable waste!

    However, if you’re building a workshop / cabin / sleepover place in the garden, there are some simple compost toilets available and preferable to a chemical toilet. Cath likes the look of this product.

    A septic tank is not just a hole in the ground

    Septic tanks have been a popular option for 800,000 properties in the UK not on mains drainage.

    What a septic tank does is settle out the solids to be broken down by anaerobic bacteria. Some of the solids sink to the bottom, and some float to the top forming a crust. Historically, the resultant effluent left the tank to be treated via a ditch, stream, soakaway or drainage field.

    A lot of those systems failed, and an EU Groundwater Directive was passed in 2006 to prevent further contamination. On 1st January 2015, the UK finally changed their regulations and Cath explains why you can no longer use a septic tank if you want to go into a stream or surface water. “The bacteria will go ‘wayhey, poo, brilliant’, they’ll start eating it, they’ll start to multiply.” This takes the oxygen from the water, which means that there’s less for fish and plants. And because you’re putting in a whole pile of nutrients, you’ll also get nitrification and algal blooming. So now you have to use what’s called a package sewage treatment plant.

    Package sewage treatment plants guarantee good quality effluent

    Package sewage treatment plants use aerobic bacteria to more effectively break down the waste. This requires introducing air into the system, normally using a pump. Or in the case of a Biodisc – a make of package sewage treatment plant – by use of a rotating disc inside.

    Without air the aerobic bacteria will die, so these systems have to be run continuously even if you don’t live onsite full time. The electrical cost may therefore be a consideration. But unlike septic tanks, these systems provide certainty that you will not be putting nutrients into the water or your drainage field.

    Drainage fields can clog up for various reasons

    A drainage field is a series of slotted pipes in a herringbone pattern laid across the land so that the effluent from a septic tank or package sewage treatment plant will percolate down through the ground.

    Septic tanks often clog drainage fields if:

    • The tanks are poorly maintained
    • The ground is fissured rock, where drainage is too fast and there are no aerobic bacteria left to deal with the bits of organic matter going into the field
    • The ground is clay, where eventually the clay gets clogged up and rain may wash off bits of matter into neighbouring streams

    There are alternatives to drainage fields

    Soil type may mean a standard drainage field cannot be installed for a septic tank or package sewage treatment plant. If this is the case, Cath has some suggestions:

    • Effluent from a package sewage treatment plant can be discharged into a nearby stream or ditch that leads to a stream
    • Reed beds, constructed wetlands and willow trenches can deal with foul water and waste water onsite

    You can get horizontal flow or vertical flow reed beds. Sometimes they’re called constructed wetlands, although this term can mean different things as explained in Septic Tank Options and Alternatives by Feidhlim Harty (written for Ireland, but relevant to the UK).

    Reed beds are sometimes seen as environmentally better options. However, Cath urges people not to put them in just to bring biodiversity on the site, as there are much better ways including bat and bird boxes, planting and hedges.

    Horizontal flow reed bed from Building Regulations Part H

     

    Vertical flow reed bed from Building Regulations Part H

    You now have to show you’re maintaining your sewerage system

    If you have an existing septic tank you will have to prove by 2020 that your system is working and being maintained properly. Right now, however, the Environment Agency is concentrating on new builds meeting regulations.

    Maintenance of septic tanks is relatively simple, as they contain no moving parts. Contractors take off the crust at the top, and remove sludge from the bottom. With a package sewage treatment plant, they still ‘de-sludge it’ but also check the pump is working properly.

     

    Find out more

    Visit the website of ech2o consultants

    Follow Cath on Twitter

    Download information from Cath

    Download the map of UK water companies

     

    Transcript

    Download a transcript of the interview with Cath Hassell

    Watch Cath’s stand-up gig: a plumber in a world of engineers

     

     

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  • HPH081 : Rainwater Harvesting From Your House – with Cath Hassell from ech2o consultants

    HPH081 : Rainwater Harvesting From Your House – with Cath Hassell from ech2o consultants

    Cath Hassell from ech2o consultants explains what rainwater harvesting is, why it’s useful and how to get started.

    If you haven’t heard our first podcast interview with Cath on the topic of saving water, check that one out first!

    cath-hassell

     

    Interview with Cath Hassell

    Rainwater harvesting is just one way of stopping rainwater from getting into our drains and sewers.

    If the house is in a city and rainwater is going into a combined sewer, then there will be more waste water to treat and there may be times when water treatment plants can’t cope and so the water spills out into local rivers or the sea.

    Keeping rain out of the stormwater stream reduces the likelihood of this occurring.

     

    What is Rainwater Harvesting?

    Rainwater harvesting is collecting rainwater that falls on the roof of a building. It’s taken from the roof because this is usually the cleanest water. This water is then stored outside but it can be used back in the building (for flushing the toilets, cleaning purposes, in washing machines, etc.) or it can be used outside the building for gardening.

    installing-a-rainwater-harvesting-tank

     

    Water is Stored Underground Because It’s Heavy

    There are two main reasons why water is stored underground:

    1. It’s heavy and therefore it does not want to be kept high up on top of a roof

    2. The water will be cool if stored underground reducing the risk of bacteria

     

    Water tanks can take up quite a lot of space so this might be another reason why it’s best to locate them underground.

     

    Setting Up Rainwater Harvesting is Easier for New Build

    In a new build house there is already going to be earth-moving equipment on site and so it becomes cheaper to dig a big hole.

    While it can be done in a retrofit situation, the initial set-up may cost more. There may also be issues such as no access to the back of a house (in a terrace, for example).

     

    Rainwater is Not Fit For Drinking or Bathing

    Astonishingly, in the UK, rainwater is actually given the same classification as water that has been swept from abattoir floors or contaminated with nuclear waste. For this reason there needs to be different pipework which runs to domestic taps, than for that which runs to toilets, washing machines etc.

     

    An Air Gap is Required to Prevent Water From Syphoning Back Into The Pipework

    The air gap is basically the space in between where the water can’t touch the taps. If a sink was overfilled the water would go down through the overflow or spill onto the floor and there would be no risk of the potentially dirty bathing water from re-entering the mains system through the taps.

     

    A High Carbon Load Damages The Reputation of Rainwater Harvesting

    The air gap does result in a loss of mains water pressure which can be overcome by pumping it to where it is needed, though using electrical pumping obviously does have a financial and carbon cost associated. The performance of the pumps can however be optimised by using particular valves.

    A high carbon load is one of the arguments that gets used against rainwater harvesting, but Cath would welcome research to be carried out looking at how taking rainwater out of the stormwater stream impacts on the reduced carbon load of the sewers and sewage treatment plants by reducing pumping there.

     

    Decisions About Rainwater Systems Can Influence The Designs of a New Building

    Cath suggests that if you’re planning a green roof she would not recommend rainwater harvesting for use back in the building. This is because the water run-off from the green roof will be discoloured and residents of the building may start using bleaches and cleaning products to remove the staining to their toilet pans.

    There is no reason why rainwater couldn’t be harvested by other areas of the building which do not have a green roof, and simply designed in with the gutters and downpipes.

     

    A Calculation Determines The Size of The Required Rainwater Storage Tank

    The storage tank holds approximately 5% of the anticipated rainwater that will be harvested in a year, which equates to around a 3 week supply. This is usually enough as the rain falls year round in the UK but there will still be some times where the tank will be too full or too empty. When empty the supply can be switched temporarily back to the mains, and when too full the overfill can be directed back towards the stormwater drains or into areas of garden that can cope with being inundated by water.

     

    Cath Has a Kickstarter Project to Produce a Book Designed to Help Educate Children

    A lot of Cath’s work is designing systems for schools. She has a Kickstarter project which will enable her to produce a book explaining about how the toilet systems work which she will be able to use when talking with the children.

     

    The Storage Tanks Are Generally Either Made of GRP (Glass Reinforced Polyester) or Polyethylene

    In the early days of rainwater harvesting the storage tanks tended to be made of concrete. Nowadays the two options are GRP (mostly for larger tanks) or poly (mostly for smaller tanks).

    A life cycle analysis was carried out on the two by Judith Thornton (CAT, AECB) who found that poly tanks were far better in terms of overall carbon footprint.

     

    Use Rainwater Harvesting Purely For The Garden if The Demand is Great Enough

    Cath recommends that for a domestic situation where you have a large requirement for garden watering, that you just use the rainwater for that and do not try and bring it into the house. Her reasons for this are because of the extra pipework and pump (for the mains backup) that will be needed. An additional outdoor mains tap will provide extra if required.

    If you’re harvesting rainwater purely for garden use then a different calculation for the storage tank is required. This reflects that as much water as possible will be collected during the non-growing months, in order to provide the best supply for the growing months.

     

     Find Out More

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    Follow Cath Hassell on Twitter

     

    Transcript

    Download a transcript of the interview with Cath Hassell.

     

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